Posted Friday August 13, 2010 - 2pm
By Adam Popescu, Beverly Hills Courier
Three months ago, a restaurant opened with a new twist on a centuries-old cuisine.
Momed at 233 S. Beverly Dr. serves progressive Middle Eastern cuisine that head chef Matt Carpenter calls unique.
“Coming to Momed is like traveling without a passport,” Carpenter explained. “It's an opportunity to taste flavors you may have read about. To be able to create that is special.”
Carpenter uses spices like urfa, which he calls his new favorite culinarysecret, incorporating it in dishes like the New York steak and spicy eggplant dip.
“It's one of the most complex spices I've come across. It starts off with a tobacco flavor. It finishes very smoky. As you chew, it changes, which is unique for a spice.”
This intimate knowledge of the interaction between food and flavor began in Carpenter’s youth, growing up with Middle Eastern friends, refined at the California Culinary Academy, and perfected through extensive travel throughout North Africa and the Near East with Momed’s owner Alex Sarkissian.
Carpenter was so influenced by the spices he encountered in Turkey, he smuggled large amounts of spices into his suitcase, he said, half-jokingly.
“We've been so busy–I'm grateful we've been busy–but going through our reserves is the hardest challenge,” he revealed.
“The Middle Eastern community and locals are very supportive. They've really embraced what we're trying to do.”
Carpenter uses his classical French background to help infuse his use of flavor profiles into his cooking. All the meat served at Momed is organic, hormone free.
Carpenter's favorite dish he serves at the restaurant is the duck shawarma.
“It's a labor of love,” he said, referring to the three-day process it takes to produce. “It's definitely worthwhile.”
“We're not really fast casual, not really formal dining,” Carpenter said. “We take a special approach to food, getting the best ingredients when they come in.”
Momed will be a featured vendor at the upcoming 9.02.10 and Taste of Beverly Hills events next month.
